September 8, 2008:
Cheap French wine exports hit hard times
By Lizzy Davies - The Guardian
French vintners were once appreciated worldwide for their
ability to produce a bottle of wine that cost barely
anything yet tasted like a million dollars. But new figures
released yesterday reveal that international demand for
France's inexpensive plonk is drying up at an unprecedented
rate, as cash-strapped British and American consumers forgo
their dinnertime tipple.
Exports of mid-range regional and table wines fell
dramatically in the first half of this year, with the number
of bottles down by 15.5% on the same period in 2007.
These varieties, so long the mainstay of the world's largest
wine producer, have been by far the hardest hit in a market
struggling to adapt to the demands of a changing world.
"Contrary to popular belief, it is no longer the AOCs
[highest quality wines] that are responsible for the bitter
aftertaste of our exports," said a report by UbiFrance, the
agency for the international development of French
businesses. "Regional wines ... which were really driving
our exports have now broken down."
The most worrying signs of a faltering market were seen
in Britain and the US, the report said, where traditionally
loyal consumers were put off by the strength of the euro
against the pound and dollar. As a sector, regional wine
export sales fell this year by 3.5% to €488m (£392m).
"The biggest difficulties were encountered in the
Anglo-Saxon markets, which tend to like [regional wines],"
it said. "The current problems with the exchange rate have
affected these markets in particular and with them these
wines from an extremely competitive niche."
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The chief victims, France's vins de table and vins de
pays, have not been the only products to suffer. After years
of sustained growth and booming sales, the champagne
industry has shown the first signs of suffering from the
economic downturn enfeebling some of its most lucrative
destinations. The figures - which show that champagne
exports fell by 4.2% in terms of volume - will send jitters
through the industry. The last time the world went into
recession, in the early 90s, sales of top labels such as
Bollinger were decimated by a newly frugal consumer
attitude.
Amid this backdrop of gloom, the saving grace for French
viticulture is proving, unsurprisingly, to be the vintage
Bordeaux of 2005. Driven by international desire to taste
what has been was hailed as the best wine for decades,
exports rocketed by 42.5%. Such is the thirst for this
finest of wines that, despite an overall drop in volume, its
producers have defied all other indicators to see profits
rise by 8.2%.
Ever since initial signs that the gentle summer of 2005
had produced some exceptional red, the global clamour has
been growing and prices have been rising. The London
vintners Berry Brothers and Rudd were selling cases of
Chateau Margaux for £5,340 in 2006 - before the wine had
even been bottled.
Lizzy Davies / The Guardian

Προσθήκη:
8/9/2008
Τελευταία Ανανέωση:
8/9/2008
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